Broad beans are relatively easy to grow. Broad beans are grouped in relation to the times they take to mature. There are dwarf broad beans which grow just over 30cm and tall broad beans which grow to over 1.25m in height. They are often one of the first vegetables to produce a crop in summer. Longpod varieties, these contain around 8 oblong beans and are a very hardy crop. The longpods can be sown in late autumn to produce an early crop.
Windsor varieties, these have much shorter pods with fewer beans in, however these produce sweeter beans and greater yields.
Broad beans are best grown in raised beds with a heavy soil which has been well dug in with manure the previous season. Broad beans prefer soil with a high nitrogen level, and not acid soils. Broad beans are easy to sow as they are a large seed which whilst benefiting from a few days in a propogator, can be planted in situ where they will grow. Ideally sow them in double rows alternately spaced, by this I mean seed in one row against a space in the opposite row. Sow to a depth of 6 to 7cm deep and allow 9 to 10 cm between each bean.
Germination of broad beans takes place at moderately cool temperatures and takes 2-3 weeks when sown outdoors, however I have used a propagator to good effect with beans germinating in just 3 days.
As they get taller the broad beans will need canes to support them as they grow. With the smaller dwarf varieties ensure the seed pods are kept off the ground as they grow to avoid wet rot. Keep the raised bed as weed free as possible. Water approximately every other day dependant on temperature.
When the broad beans start flowering, pinch out the tips to encourage the pods to form. Broad beans sown in spring can be harvested at around 12 to 6 weeks and beans sown in autumn can be harvested at around 28 to 35 weeks. Your broad beans can then be frozen or dried.
For more information on how to grow your own vegetables visit www.gyoveg.com
Wednesday, April 01, 2009
How to grow garlic
Garlic is one of the easiest vegetables to grow, you can plant in January for a harvest in July/August. You can plant garlic outside in soil or in compost in 5 cm pots.
Step 1 is to buy a Bulb of Garlic - you can buy from the supermarket but organic is better as some supermarkets treat garlic bulbs with a bulb inhibitor which stops you growing new bulbs for it. So go for organic / farm garlic if you can.
Each Garlic bulb will produce 8 - 12 cloves each of which will be used to form a new plant, I would recommend 2 bulbs to start with, as this will provide more than enough garlic plants for most families.
Fill your 5cm pots with well watered compost, alternatively if you want to plant in soil prepare an area where you have space to plant the cloves 6-8 inches apart.
Break open your garlic bulbs into individual cloves, removing as much of the dry waste as possible. Then plant one clove per pot, the tip of the garlic clove should be pointing upwards and be just visible above the compost.
Keep well watered as the garlic will grow very fast in the first few days with 2 inch leaf growth per day not uncommon. Keep in a sunny position.
Other than watering garlic is very, very simple to grow. Harvesting - pull up one bulb and see how many paper like layers are around the bulb (these are called sheaths) you can peel off the bulb, if there are only three, harvest the garlic bulbs by gently pulling on the leaves and lifting with a trowel, if there are four or more layer then wait another couple weeks or until the leaves have turned brown. For more information on growing garlic and other vegetables visit www.gyoveg.com
Step 1 is to buy a Bulb of Garlic - you can buy from the supermarket but organic is better as some supermarkets treat garlic bulbs with a bulb inhibitor which stops you growing new bulbs for it. So go for organic / farm garlic if you can.
Each Garlic bulb will produce 8 - 12 cloves each of which will be used to form a new plant, I would recommend 2 bulbs to start with, as this will provide more than enough garlic plants for most families.
Fill your 5cm pots with well watered compost, alternatively if you want to plant in soil prepare an area where you have space to plant the cloves 6-8 inches apart.
Break open your garlic bulbs into individual cloves, removing as much of the dry waste as possible. Then plant one clove per pot, the tip of the garlic clove should be pointing upwards and be just visible above the compost.
Keep well watered as the garlic will grow very fast in the first few days with 2 inch leaf growth per day not uncommon. Keep in a sunny position.
Other than watering garlic is very, very simple to grow. Harvesting - pull up one bulb and see how many paper like layers are around the bulb (these are called sheaths) you can peel off the bulb, if there are only three, harvest the garlic bulbs by gently pulling on the leaves and lifting with a trowel, if there are four or more layer then wait another couple weeks or until the leaves have turned brown. For more information on growing garlic and other vegetables visit www.gyoveg.com
How to grow your own cabbages
Growing cabbages is fairly easy. Cabbages varieties are grouped according to the time they will reach maturity - Spring, early Summer, Summer, or Autumn. Cabbages are an annual plant.
Cabbages need rich, fertile, soil that is both moist and firm soil. Ideally suited to planting in raised beds. Of note, cabbages should be rotated in there planting each season. Best suited to soil rich in nitrogen and well manured each season.
Particular attention should be paid as to when to sow your cabbages, always read the instructions on the seed packet to do this. Initially sow your cabbages in biodegradable modules as this makes for easier planting in their final location and avoids disturbing the roots, they should be ready to be planted out on your plot in around a month, ensure they are kept well watered during this period.
As the cabbages grow keep them supported by earthing up around them. Spring cabbages may need protecting under a clear cover such as a glass or plastic cloches until established. The newer varieties of cabbage tend to store far better than older types. Your cabbages plants should be dug up after the head has been removed and harvested.
Some varieties of cabbage can be stored during winter as long as they are harvested before any frost. Simply take off the outer leaves and store on newspaper or dry straw in cool and damp location, doing this will keep the cabbages fresh for upto 5 months. If you would like more information on growing your own vegetables then please visit http://www.gyoveg.com/
Cabbages need rich, fertile, soil that is both moist and firm soil. Ideally suited to planting in raised beds. Of note, cabbages should be rotated in there planting each season. Best suited to soil rich in nitrogen and well manured each season.
Particular attention should be paid as to when to sow your cabbages, always read the instructions on the seed packet to do this. Initially sow your cabbages in biodegradable modules as this makes for easier planting in their final location and avoids disturbing the roots, they should be ready to be planted out on your plot in around a month, ensure they are kept well watered during this period.
As the cabbages grow keep them supported by earthing up around them. Spring cabbages may need protecting under a clear cover such as a glass or plastic cloches until established. The newer varieties of cabbage tend to store far better than older types. Your cabbages plants should be dug up after the head has been removed and harvested.
Some varieties of cabbage can be stored during winter as long as they are harvested before any frost. Simply take off the outer leaves and store on newspaper or dry straw in cool and damp location, doing this will keep the cabbages fresh for upto 5 months. If you would like more information on growing your own vegetables then please visit http://www.gyoveg.com/
How to grow carrots
Growing your own carrots is reasonably easy. Of note, carrots are actually biennials which are grown as annuals. Carrots produce thin green leaves up to 30cm high, and long orange roots e.g. the carrots.
Carrots are strong in Vitamin A, B and C. Commonly they are orange however lighter coloured varieties do exist. Carrots need good quality soil, well manured from the previous season. The soil should be loose not firm to allow the roots to grow freely downwards.
The soil should be prepared as to be as fine as possible before sowing. Carrot seeds are very small and one trick is to mix it with some fine sand to help spread the seed more evenly and avoid thinning out so much later. The carrot seeds should be sown in drills about 1cm deep with and about 20 cm apart, gently firming over with a thin layer of soil.
Carrots can be sown as early as February and late sowings as late as July, although this depends on the variety you are growing. Always read the seed packets to establish the correct sowing periods. Successive sowings every two weeks should produce a regular supply of carrots.
As the carrots grow start thinning them to around 6 to 10cm apart, making sure to protect them from carrot fly with netting or clear plastic up to a height of 60cm all around the carrots. The bed should be kept as weed free as possible and watered on a regular basis.
Early carrot crops can be harvested in as little as seven weeks after sowing, and the main crop after ten weeks. To pick simply pull them out by hand or with a small fork. Cut off the top leaves and store in a box in a cool dry place.
Carrots are strong in Vitamin A, B and C. Commonly they are orange however lighter coloured varieties do exist. Carrots need good quality soil, well manured from the previous season. The soil should be loose not firm to allow the roots to grow freely downwards.
The soil should be prepared as to be as fine as possible before sowing. Carrot seeds are very small and one trick is to mix it with some fine sand to help spread the seed more evenly and avoid thinning out so much later. The carrot seeds should be sown in drills about 1cm deep with and about 20 cm apart, gently firming over with a thin layer of soil.
Carrots can be sown as early as February and late sowings as late as July, although this depends on the variety you are growing. Always read the seed packets to establish the correct sowing periods. Successive sowings every two weeks should produce a regular supply of carrots.
As the carrots grow start thinning them to around 6 to 10cm apart, making sure to protect them from carrot fly with netting or clear plastic up to a height of 60cm all around the carrots. The bed should be kept as weed free as possible and watered on a regular basis.
Early carrot crops can be harvested in as little as seven weeks after sowing, and the main crop after ten weeks. To pick simply pull them out by hand or with a small fork. Cut off the top leaves and store in a box in a cool dry place.
How to build a raised bed
How to build a raised bed Whilst they have been around for many years raised beds are the in thing this season, with many gardeners old and new now using them and I will discuss how to build one for as little money as possible.
The benefits of raised beds are:
1.) The soil heats up earlier in season and stays warmer for longer at the end of the season, thus extending the overall growing window.
2.) Raised beds can be accessed from all sides, thus eliminating the need to constantly have to avoid treading on crops or seedlings. Commonly raised beds are 6 inches high and 1.2 metres wide and 2.4 metres long. This ease of access also save our poor backs after a long day on the vegetable plot.
3.) They can also be built in high levels thus making them ideal for those gardeners with limited mobility. Higher raised beds enabling gardening from a seat or wheelchair.
What you will need to build a raised bed?
1.) Four old scaffolding planks are ideal for building raised beds, scaffolding companies often have old planks available for free if you are prepared to collect them. You want enough for 2 pieces 1.2 metres long and for 2 pieces 2.4 metres long.
2.) Enough 2 x 2 inch timber to make six 1 foot long stakes.
3.) Small tub of creosote
4.) Large paintbrush
5.) 20 decking screws.
6.) One handsaw or ideally circular saw (plus extension lead).
7.) Electric drill and 4 mm drill bit and a countersink. 8.) Saw bench or chair to rest the wood on.
9.) Tape measure.
10.) Pencil.
11.) Straight edge.
12.) Large hammer.
13.) Cordless screwdriver
14.) Old Newspaper
15.) Watering Can
Instructions:
1.) Rest one of the scaffolding boards on your chair or saw table, measure out 1.2 metres from one end and using your straight edge and pencil mark a line out at 90 degrees to the edge of the board.
2.) Using your handsaw or circular saw (Always take care with circular saws and wear appropriate safety gear) cut across the line.
3.) Repeat steps 1 & 2 above for the second plank.
4.) Now measure out a 2.4 metre length of board and using your straight edge and pencil mark a line at 90 degrees to the edge of the board. Then repeat step 2 above.
5.) Repeat step 4 for the second 2.4 metre board
6.) Now using your electric drill and 4mm drill bit, drill two holes 4-5 cm in from the edge of the end of each 1.2 metre long planks, approximately 4 inches apart. This should leave you with four holes drilled in each plank. Do the same with the 2.4 metre long planks. But also drill 2 more holes in the centre of the 2.4 metre long planks again about 4 inches apart.
7.) Paint the planks on both sides and then ends and put your feet up and have a cup of tea whilst they dry.
8.) Take the 2 x 2 timber and cut it into six 1 ft lengths.
9.) Take 2.4 metre long planks and place one of the timbers from 8. Above and using the decking screws fasten the 2.4 metre plank to the 1 ft lengths of 2 x2 timber. Do the same with the other 2.4 metre plank.
10.) Now using the hammer tap the 2 x 2 inch timbers attached to the first 2.4 metre long plank into the ground where you want your raised bed to be. (I recommend digging the earth around where the wood is to be hammered in first to loosen it)
11.) Now measure 1.2 metres away from the plank you just hammered in and do the same with the second 2.4 metre plank, making sure it is parallel with the first one.
12.) Now take the 1.2 metre planks and using the predrilled holes and decking screws fasten them to the 2 x 2 inch stakes at the end of each 2.4 metre long plank. Your raised bed is now ready.
13.) Now take the old newspaper and put it down in overlapping sheets in the bottom of the raised bed, then using the watering can wet it all down, allow it to dry. It should dry as one big sheet protecting the bottom of your raised bed.
14.) Add layers of compost and soil alternately to the bed. Your raised bed is now ready.
If you found this article of interest and would like to know more about growing your own vegetables then please visit gyoveg.com
The benefits of raised beds are:
1.) The soil heats up earlier in season and stays warmer for longer at the end of the season, thus extending the overall growing window.
2.) Raised beds can be accessed from all sides, thus eliminating the need to constantly have to avoid treading on crops or seedlings. Commonly raised beds are 6 inches high and 1.2 metres wide and 2.4 metres long. This ease of access also save our poor backs after a long day on the vegetable plot.
3.) They can also be built in high levels thus making them ideal for those gardeners with limited mobility. Higher raised beds enabling gardening from a seat or wheelchair.
What you will need to build a raised bed?
1.) Four old scaffolding planks are ideal for building raised beds, scaffolding companies often have old planks available for free if you are prepared to collect them. You want enough for 2 pieces 1.2 metres long and for 2 pieces 2.4 metres long.
2.) Enough 2 x 2 inch timber to make six 1 foot long stakes.
3.) Small tub of creosote
4.) Large paintbrush
5.) 20 decking screws.
6.) One handsaw or ideally circular saw (plus extension lead).
7.) Electric drill and 4 mm drill bit and a countersink. 8.) Saw bench or chair to rest the wood on.
9.) Tape measure.
10.) Pencil.
11.) Straight edge.
12.) Large hammer.
13.) Cordless screwdriver
14.) Old Newspaper
15.) Watering Can
Instructions:
1.) Rest one of the scaffolding boards on your chair or saw table, measure out 1.2 metres from one end and using your straight edge and pencil mark a line out at 90 degrees to the edge of the board.
2.) Using your handsaw or circular saw (Always take care with circular saws and wear appropriate safety gear) cut across the line.
3.) Repeat steps 1 & 2 above for the second plank.
4.) Now measure out a 2.4 metre length of board and using your straight edge and pencil mark a line at 90 degrees to the edge of the board. Then repeat step 2 above.
5.) Repeat step 4 for the second 2.4 metre board
6.) Now using your electric drill and 4mm drill bit, drill two holes 4-5 cm in from the edge of the end of each 1.2 metre long planks, approximately 4 inches apart. This should leave you with four holes drilled in each plank. Do the same with the 2.4 metre long planks. But also drill 2 more holes in the centre of the 2.4 metre long planks again about 4 inches apart.
7.) Paint the planks on both sides and then ends and put your feet up and have a cup of tea whilst they dry.
8.) Take the 2 x 2 timber and cut it into six 1 ft lengths.
9.) Take 2.4 metre long planks and place one of the timbers from 8. Above and using the decking screws fasten the 2.4 metre plank to the 1 ft lengths of 2 x2 timber. Do the same with the other 2.4 metre plank.
10.) Now using the hammer tap the 2 x 2 inch timbers attached to the first 2.4 metre long plank into the ground where you want your raised bed to be. (I recommend digging the earth around where the wood is to be hammered in first to loosen it)
11.) Now measure 1.2 metres away from the plank you just hammered in and do the same with the second 2.4 metre plank, making sure it is parallel with the first one.
12.) Now take the 1.2 metre planks and using the predrilled holes and decking screws fasten them to the 2 x 2 inch stakes at the end of each 2.4 metre long plank. Your raised bed is now ready.
13.) Now take the old newspaper and put it down in overlapping sheets in the bottom of the raised bed, then using the watering can wet it all down, allow it to dry. It should dry as one big sheet protecting the bottom of your raised bed.
14.) Add layers of compost and soil alternately to the bed. Your raised bed is now ready.
If you found this article of interest and would like to know more about growing your own vegetables then please visit gyoveg.com
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